Preface: Rock climbing training

Rock climbing is one of the fastest growing sports in recent years in China. Whether it is in the direction of leisure or competition, efficient and scientific training is very important for rock climbers. Because rock climbing is a combination of skill, strength, and intelligence, it is highly specialized in training. The purpose of this paper is to outline the above three elements in order to clarify the structure and characteristics of the rock climbing training method.

Skill training

(coordination, softness, skill learning)

Strength Training

(explosive power, strength endurance, muscle endurance)

Mental training

(Psychological, intellectual)

Rock climbing training method
First, strength training
(1) Power training: Explosive power refers to the power required to instantly mobilize a large number of muscles or to take dynamic motions (dyno). Its determinants include both maximum muscle strength and muscle mobilization power. Muscle strength is proportional to the number of muscle fibers and their cross-sectional area. As for muscle mobilization power, it refers to the number of muscle fibers that can be mobilized in one contraction. Maximal muscle strength is a prerequisite for a high-intensity action. The correlation with explosive force is the so-called "contact strenght", which is the time required to produce the maximum muscle strength when touching the handle point. The increase in muscle strength at the touch point depends on the development of maximum mobilization. As for training, the training of maximum muscle strength aims to increase muscle volume to accelerate energy conversion and increase energy storage, so-called muscle hypertrophy training; and the purpose of mobilization ability training is to increase the maximum percentage of muscle fiber contraction. Compared with the "quantity" of muscle hypertrophy training to increase muscle, mobilization training is to increase the maximum muscle strength from the "quality" level. If maximum muscle strength is used to force muscle fiber contraction, the maximum mobilization force can be developed, and the training method is better than the actual climbing with weight training (eg, finger/campus board) for a specific muscle group.



(b) Power-Endurance Training: Since rock climbing lasts for more than 6 minutes, the energy supply is based on anaerobic metabolism, the so-called "lactic acid metabolism system." Although this system does not need oxygen intervention when it is powered, it will produce metabolite-lactic acid, which will slow down the speed of energy supply and cause muscle fatigue. For climbing, a sport that emphasizes a delicate balance, once lactic acid accumulates (or “pump”), the player will suddenly lose coordination, and even if it is easy to move, it will be difficult to make. Second, when the muscles contract, the tight muscle fibers will oppress or even block the microvessels that supply their oxygen. When the microvascular delivery system is completely blocked, the muscle can only be powered by anaerobic metabolism, which also causes lactic acid accumulation and rapid exhaustion. Therefore, the purpose of strength endurance training is to improve the energy supply rate of muscle under hypoxic conditions, and to develop healthy microvascular tissue to increase the blood oxygen delivery rate. As for training methods, actual climbing is better than weight training. Because anaerobic metabolic ability training can cause extreme tiredness and disharmony of the limb, in order to avoid the skill and therefore to step back, it is best to choose a line with familiar movement and moderate intensity for training.

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