Richemont's core development

Baume & Mercier made a high profile on SIHH at the beginning of the year and earned a lot of attention with the "affordable and practical movement" . Previously, Mercier's coffee in the Richemont Group was very small, and its positioning was not high. Its products all use general movements such as ETA or Sellita.

New product equipped with BM12.1975A movement

Different from this year, Baume and Mercier has relied on the BM12.1975A brand new automatic movement to search a large wave of traffic. It is estimated that the new movement should also be fully facing consumers in the near future . Let's calm down and learn more about this new movement.

The new movement is divided into COSC version and non-COSC version, the difference between the two is about 1,000 yuan , see other highlights:

1. Silicon hairspring, escapement fork, escapement wheel, anti-magnetic;

2. Power storage 120 hours, equal to 5 days;

3. Improve the lubrication of the movement, the maintenance period can be extended to 5 to 7 years, and the warranty period is increased to 3 years, which can relatively reduce the maintenance cost of the wearer;

4. Less than 20,000 yuan.

It is really very tempting, and some even think it is more valuable than the Tudor MT56 series movement.

Although BM12.1975A is the brand's first self-produced movement on the bright side, the actual research and development and production still need to rely on the group's thigh- Manufacture Horlogère Valfleurier movement factory .

The role of the Valfleurier movement factory in the group is very clear. It develops corresponding movements and produces parts for the needs of different brands, and then returns the assembly line and other work to the brand.

BM12.1975A movement

Therefore, we don't know how much the celebrity has contributed to the development of the new movement. Forget it, looking at the literal data, BM12.1975A is still a good movement, so is it really a product from zero to one?

No, after comparison, you will find that the BM12.1975A was modified from the 1847 MC movement launched by Cartier in 2015 (view from "Chronos Japan"), although it is not easy to be seen.

1847 MC straddle balance bridge

The balance bridge of BM12.1975A is single-arm type, while the bridge of 1847 MC is span type, and the barrel has been greatly modified. The dynamic storage from 42 hours to 120 hours proves everything.

Now that we are here, we should bring out another well-known brand- Panerai , and its Luminor Due 38 , is also a 38mm female watch that was also launched this year and caused a sensation.

Because Luminor Due 38's movement OP XXXIV can be said to be the twin brothers of the BM12.1975A movement of the Baume and Mercier, the appearance is very similar, and the source is Cartier's 1847 MC movement.

Luminor Due 38

Watch friends familiar with Panerai should know that the movement with the OP number usually refers to non-self-made . So Panerai clearly has the strength of self-made movement, why not develop it yourself?

Let me talk about the background: the P2002, P.9000 and P.3000 series movements previously developed by Panerai are suitable for watches with 44 mm or more, and the diameter of the product equipped with P.9010 movement has reached 42 mm All belong to the big table. In recent years, there has been a slight ebb in the big watch boom, and regular watches have gradually returned to life , so Panerai must try to change it.

Let's talk about the cost: the development cost of a movement is very high. In business talk, after all, it is an attempt. No one wants to do anything that can't be recovered. The condition of the Baume & Mercier BM12.1975A movement just meets the requirements and the price Don't set it too high.

Men wear Luminor Due 38 also feel good

Boldly predict that although Luminor Due 38 is marked with a female watch, if it performs well, a male watch of the same size is also likely to land.

The movement of the Celebrity comes to an end, and then talk about the relatively well-known Montblanc TimeWalker series of self-made movement chronographs .

This new product is a chronograph with three pandas and a movement of MB 25.10 . Looking back, Montblanc's self-made movements include the MB R100 / 200 movement of the Nicholas Caesar series and the Minerapolis antique movement . The rest are almost universal movements. So this MB 25.10 is really a completely self-made movement?

69000 left, MB 25.10 right

The answer is also No, which was modified from the 69000 series chronograph movement of the other brand of the group, IWC. Looking at the front of the dial, it may be difficult for you to link the two movements together, because MB 25.10 is the lower three eyes and 69000 is the left three eyes, but it can be seen at a glance after turning the back.

Is the appetizer in front OK? Now on the main course.

Vacheron Constantin launched a new series of Fiftysix in SIHH. This series is based on the 6073 in 1956, which is both classic and innovative. The type of Wu Lu includes three types of single calendar big three needles, week calendar dynamic storage, full calendar moon phase, steel shell and K gold, a total of 6 styles.

Single calendar big three stitches

Among them, the price of the three-pin single-steel single calendar is less than 100,000 yuan, which makes it the cheapest product under the brand . Why can it be sold so cheap, because the "new" caliber 1326 equipped inside does not have the Geneva mark (the other two complex movements are 2460 QCL / 1 and 2475 SC / 2, both with the Geneva mark).

Although the 1326 movement also has K gold oscillating weight and Geneva decoration, but without the strict requirements of the Geneva mark, the cost will naturally drop.