National Mountaineering Team's Winter Mountaineering Practical Technology Training Program in 2003

I. Introduction to Mountain Peaks:

Cho Oyu Peak, 8201 meters above sea level, is the sixth highest peak in the world. Located on the China-Nigeria border at 86.6 degrees east longitude and 28 degrees north latitude, the mountain peak is bordered by the northeastern ridge and southwestern ridge. The north side is in the Dinh Ri County of Tibet Autonomous Region, and the south side belongs to the Kingdom of Nepal.
“Zhuo Ao You” means Tibetan in the “primary teacher” and stands in the middle of the Himalayas with its majestic majesty. Her distance from the top of the world, Mt. Everest, is 100 km. The mountain peaks are surrounded by mountains. There are 7975 m Gezhongkangfeng and 7882m Nanjiabawa in the east and 7013m in the northwest. The Barong Peak is a four-light peak at 7,308 meters in the direction of the north, and there are 7,175 meters of Menlongze Peak and 7,134 meters of the Red Renma Peak in the southwest direction.
Zhuoouyoufeng mainly includes five ridges in the northwest, northeast, southwest, southeast, and west mountains. Peaks are covered by snow all year round and numerous glaciers. The Gabral Glacier on the north side is 10 km long, the Lanbala Glacier on the south side is 14 km long, and the Gheba Heights Glacier is 20 km long. The type of glacier is dominated by valley glaciers, followed by flat-top glaciers and ice glaciers.
The climate of the Cho Oyu region is similar to Everest. From October to next March, the wind season is usually 50 meters/second. The temperature is usually between minus 30 degrees and minus 40 degrees. The rainy season is June-September. Only during the period from the end of April to the end of May or the period from mid-September to the beginning of October, there are often 2 to 5 good days for 3 or 4 times, so the last summit day for mountaineering activities is usually selected during this time.
The Jinshan route departs from Lhasa along the China-Nepal Highway southbound, passes through Shigatse and Lahaka, passes through Toll and Gyutso, travels 560 kilometers to Dingri, and follows more than 40 kilometers south of the easy road to reach Zhuo Youyou. Mount Everest, the base of the Gabral Glacier climbing camp. The base camp is 4,950 meters above sea level, with open terrain and sheltered winds, and ample water resources. The transitional camp is built up to approximately 5,400 meters above sea level along the Gabral Glacier, and the forward camp (ABC) is established at 5,700 meters; it is 6400 meters eastward from the forward camp. The No. 1 High Mountain Camp (C1) was established, the No. 2 High Mountain Camp (C2) was established at 7,200 meters, and the No. 3 High Mountain Camp (C3), also known as the Assault Camp, was established at 7,600 meters.
In 1954, the Austrian mountaineers Keith, Iyorill, and Sherpas Pansingh and Pansadawa took the first peak on the northwest slope on October 19th.
In 1985, the Tibetan team in China successfully climbed the northwest slope.



Second, the characteristics of the climbing route:

(1) The entire climbing route is technically difficult, but requires great physical strength and good mountain adaptability. In the 6900m and 7700m ice-wall and ice-snow mixing area, it is necessary to operate climbing equipment technology.
(2) There is almost no risk of ice avalanche on the climbing route. All of them are walking on ridges. There are very few places that cross back and forth. Most of them are straight up and down, and they have high safety.
(3) The entire climbing route is approximately 4 kilometers from the forward camp to the summit. The longest section is from the No. 1 camp to the No. 2 camp. The shortest section is the No. 2 camp to the No. 3 camp. So many climbers hit the summit from the No. 2 alpine camp with good weather and strength, and then returned to the No. 2 High Mountain Camp.
(4) Above the No. 1 High Mountain Camp, it is necessary to wear high-altitude double-soled shoes and hung crampons; base camp can be used to wear high-heeled hiking shoes on No. 1 high-altitude camp. In addition, it is best to bring a pair of sandals for use when crossing the river.

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