Fingerboard Training Guide
The following are the training courses that Metolius rock climbers have been training for, explore problems, and seek solutions for many years.
First of all, we must emphasize that each climber has his own very special and complex physical condition. In order to achieve the effectiveness of training, your training course must first make an in-depth and complete assessment of your strengths and weaknesses, while taking into account personal climbing goals. Hopefully the following information will help you build a personalized training program that suits you. Although there are various kinds of training books on the market, it is necessary to understand what kind of climbers are providing the information. What is your own positioning? It is a professional rock climber who can engage in rock climbing and training at all times or only Want to enhance the physical fitness and confidence of the weekend climbers?
Collect all kinds of information, listen to expert opinions, spend some time experimenting with various methods, and then conduct the most effective training for you. Only by being responsible for one's physical fitness and persevering in their own training courses can the goal of training be achieved.
Fingering training is the key to improving climbing ability
With the increase and prevalence of indoor rock formations, Zhili has retreated to the second line of training tools. However, we believe that the strength training board has the advantages of convenience and specificity. Installing a space-free fingerboard on the porch at home allows you to take time out of the busy training course. The shape of the fingerboard can also make you more effective than the rock field to assess the magnitude of the progress of a particular force. When you hold a specific hand point on a fingerboard to perform a set of exercises, you can easily control the amount of training. So you can train to the limit of physical fitness, but it is not easy to hurt your fingers.
The progress of finger training is less easy to grasp. To understand what you are exercising is the tendon and ligament-associated tissue. They take a long time to increase, and it takes longer to recover when they are injured. When you use both the fingerboard and the artificial rock field training, be careful to avoid the finger or arm being subjected to excessive or excessively long periods of load. When there is a sign of injury, take time to recover it. When symptoms persist, especially when there is long-term pain and swelling, seek professional physician treatment of sports injuries.
Training course
You can use the Metolius fingerboard to do two types of training: develop explosiveness or develop muscle endurance. Endurance-oriented training enables your muscles to operate over long periods of time. This kind of training usually allows your muscles to move in close to aerobic conditions, that is, to perform longer periods of exercise under lighter loads. Explosive-powered training focuses on short-term, high-loaded exercises that allow your muscles to quickly wear out at the limit of strength. This kind of training can increase muscle strength (muscle fiber thickening and can dominate more muscle fibers), so that you can make a rapid movement.
The following training methods assume that your muscle strength has reached a considerable level. These trainings are also driven by explosiveness because:
We think that you can develop some stamina from explosive training, but you can't develop explosive power from endurance-oriented training. Of course, it is best to train the two separately.
Whether from a physical or psychological point of view, it is extremely difficult to train endurance on the fingerboard for a long period of time.
The weight of each training load must be determined by you. Using your maximum safety load at each stage can give you maximum gain. The amount of load is based on your weight. If you need to increase weight, you can use a heavy belt. If you want to lose weight, you can put a chair or bench under the back of the fingerboard and lower it on one foot. Remember that the other foot stays just below you, and you can use this foot to land when you fall. You can place the scale on a chair so that you can accurately measure how much weight has been reduced (above). If you do not trust this method, you can also find your partner to lift you.
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