Rock climbing classification and technical terms (2)
The Beijing Youth Daily featured Tintin's Yangshuo climbing article. Also say a few concept nouns
-mh 07:32:43 On the 9th of November in the Beijing Youth Daily, he wrote Tintin's Yangshuo climbing article and the climbers' feelings. Written vivid and interesting. Everyone can see it for themselves.
I only pick a few problems. Although it is not a big problem, I hope that mistakes and inadequacies should not be spread as far as possible:
* The degree of difficulty "the most common is the American Standard" is inaccurate. The climb of the United States is far less popular than in many European countries. In addition, Americans do not love to travel abroad. Outside the United States, a large number of routes in the world are not difficult for the American YDS system. The oldest route in Yangshuo was not opened by Americans. If we see YDS's report more than that, it's probably because the country's first foreign language is English. I hope that the popularity of climbing in the country has its own degree of difficulty. If you want to use existing difficulty criteria (such as YDS) you need to have a fair amount of people who have an accurate sense of the level. This requires these people to climb a considerable number of fixed-level routes (tens of lines at each level, and include walls, seams, friction, wide seams, etc.) which can not be done in the country at one time.
*"The general location of the subsection is generally selected where it is easy to set a point of protection and rest comfortably."
It is the most important criterion of the segment.
What is back-stepping and drop knee
Come and go hastily January 22nd, 2000 at 4:32 pm
"Back-stepping and drop knee are common skills for many rock climbers...." Is back-stepping not a side pull? What is a drop knee? When is it used?
This is a drop knee
Mh January 26, 2000 4:00 am
Re: Will not be this? --(Come and go in a hurry)
Back stepping simply means using your left foot to step on the right side of your right foot (and vice versa) The route that can be taken down from the top of the wall does not necessarily require the length of the segment to be less than half the length of the main rope. In addition, a static rope with a root length equal to or longer than 6 mm can be used to complete a full rope length drop, or it is common to use a double rope. This allows the section chief to have a full length to speed up the climb.
* Pioneer climbing does not necessarily need to set protection points every two or three meters. As mentioned in the article, Tintin had a mechanical plug after ten meters. This is entirely up to the leader himself. There is a route called SNAKE DIKE on the HALFDOME of YOSEMITE. There is no place in the entire 50m section where protection points can be placed. On difficult routes, it is not only time-consuming, but also physically demanding. The biggest difference in physical strength between Pioneer climbing and top rope climbing is to stop and do protection.
*bigwall has a special definition. Because the characteristics of the large rock wall are large, so the equipment to be used is greatly regulated. Therefore, it is necessary to use haulbags instead of backpacks to store equipment supplies, and use special hanging books to rest (instead of relying on the search for natural forms of camping). Stairs). The technical feature is that there is a coordinated division of labor between leader and follower so that time is not spent on equipment handling. Traditional bigwall climbing is equipment climbing, so often use a few dozens of equipment. Europe's three major northern walls are mountaineering "walls," and it is not the same as a dedicated bigwall climb. Messner had a book. The English version called "BIG WALLS" talked about his experience climbing the mountain all over the world. It has nothing to do with the bigwall technology developed by YOSEMITE.
A1 ~ A6 six levels is the level of difficulty of climbing equipment, and bigwall not directly related. (Bigwall climbing can be used freestyle) A6 This level is the result of the so-called "new wave" device climbing difficulty and so on, is now controversial.
Re: What is the degree of difficulty?
-mh 09:46:06 On September 06, for the new route, the first climber gives a grade to the (already existing grade) route he has climbed before, and later people evaluate that there are more people climbing and the time is longer. There is recognition. So as long as there are more people in a region, you can set your own grading standards. In the world there is the United States and Australia (UIAA) and other grades.
At the beginning of the development of a hierarchy, the difficulty levels of the first few levels were somewhat arbitrary. But the convention is customary. With the progress of technology, there is a new and more difficult level, because a grade difference means that it has a clear feeling of how difficult the difficulty spans. The new, more difficult grades are therefore extrapolated on existing grades. See also the previous YDS rating post.
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